New Zealand Trip Diary
This is Norman's trip diary from the February 24-March 5, 2006 Milford Wilderness Tour.
We began our trip by collecting everyone from their pre-trip lodgings. Our group of 13 people consisted of; two Australians, five British, five Americans, one Kiwi and our two native leaders, Bas, a Dutchman who spent 5 years cycling the world before settling in New Zealand, and Russell a lifelong kiwi, best described as a scrappy little bloke, who worked as a butcher and started guiding in retirement.
Day 1: Christchurch, The Port Hills, and a Farm Stay
After the standard 1st morning's mayhem of bike fittings, saddle changes and introductions, we enjoyed a short van ride up the Port Hills. Situated on the eastern edge of Christchurch, the port hills are a reminder of the areas volcanic history. The van brought us most of the way up the hill where we hopped on our bicycles for the short climb, to the summit for wonderful views of, the caldera ( the crater created when a volcano collapses into itself), Christchurch and the Canterbury Plains to the west and the Pacific Ocean to the east. We had the roads to ourselves as we enjoyed an easy downhill and a short flat section to lunch.
Lunch was at a nice winery on the outskirts of Christchurch. Geoff, our New Zealand partner, joined us for lunch and brought a great kumara (A New Zealand sweat potato) salad made from his mother's secret recipe and a lovely, dry New Zealand Gewurtraminer which was the perfect wine for a summer day.
After lunch, I took a nap as the van carried us through the industrial and suburban sections of Christchurch and to the town of Farlie, a farming town in the heart of Canterbury. We stopped for cappuccino and ice cream and then enjoyed another car free ride through back roads of prime New Zealand farm country.
On our first night the group divided into smaller groups of 3 or 4 people and we enjoyed the traditional New Zealand experience of a farm stay. More intimate than a Bed and Breakfast, a farm stay allows you to experience the day to day life of a typical Kiwi family and to enjoy their hospitality and a home cooked meal. My hosts served us hogget, which is what a lamb becomes when it turns two, but because of their strong kiwi accents, I was initially confused and thought I was getting hobbit for dinner.
Day 2: Fairlie and Lake Tekapo
After breakfast with our hosts we rejoined the group and all pedaled towards the foothills of New Zealand's famous Southern Alps, the jagged mountain range the run through the center of the south island. Most of us choose the fairly easy climb up over Burke's Pass while a few folks opted to ride in the van to the top of the pass and to our morning tea.
A tradition on our New Zealand trips is the mid-morning tea stop, where we relax and enjoy snacks and tea. Today's tea featured delicious warm banana and lemon muffins from a local café. Unfortunately, Russell became distracted while making the coffee and produced what was arguably the worst cup of coffee ever produced in the southern hemisphere an accomplishment which he would be reminded of for the rest of the trip.
As we crossed Burke's Pass the landscape shifted from farmland to southern pine forests and we caught our first glimpse of the snow capped Alps. Everyone enjoyed the easy ride down Burke's Pass to the shore of Lake Tekapo, famous for luminously blue waters, a result of the sediment created when glaciers carved out the basin. Lunch as always was a treat. Bas made a wonderfully filling salad which was accompanied by cheeses, salamis, fresh bread, and oysters. At lunch I renewed my love affair with L & P. L & P or Lemon and Paeroa is the original New Zealand soft drink. First bottled in 1907 as a mix of Paeroa mineral water and lemon, L&P is no longer made with Paeroa mineral water, but it is a refreshing and addictive New Zealand treat.
After settling into our lodgings, we all joined Bas and Russell for short hike up Mount John for views of Mount Cook, Lake Tekapo and the surrounding mountains.
We finished our evening stargazing on the shores of the lake and enjoyed our first views of the Southern Cross.
Day 3: Lake Tekapo, The Tekapo Canals, and Lake Ohua
Our morning began with a lavish Swiss breakfast of pastries, fresh fruit, meats and cheeses. We all lingered a while enjoying freshly brewed coffee and views of the Lake.
After breakfast we all cycled the easy 29km along the Tekapo Canals. Built in the 1970's for New Zealand's hydroelectric industry, the roads paralleling the canals, are hardly used except by service vehicles, and offer wonderful views of the MacKenzie Country, the high inland basin between the lush farmlands of the Canterbury Plains and Southern Alps. Our ride ended at our morning tea spot complete with good coffee and a wonderful New Zealand raisin cake that leads me to overindulge.
After tea we cycled along the canals for another 12 km before hopping in the bus for a ride up the road to the village of Mt Cook. It looked like foul weather was moving in, so Bas suggested we forgo the normal leisurely lunch, for a picnic to increase our chances of hiking the Hooker Valley in the sunshine. The Hooker Valley cuts through the Southern Alps in the shadow of Mt Cook/ Aoraki the highest peak in New Zealand and terminates at a small glacial lake. The easy walk through the Hooker Valley offered us easy access to some of New Zealand's most dramatic scenery.
Day 4: Lake Ohau, Lindis Pass, and Wanaka
After breakfast at the Lake Ohau Lodge, a rustic lodge serving a privately owned ski field, we enjoyed another car free ride from the lodge back to the main highway savoring views of the lake along the way. When we reached the main highway, there was a brilliant tailwind and we all felt like Lance Armstrong as it pushed us into the town of Omara.
From Omara many of us chose the 10 kilometer climb up Lindis Pass. The first part of the ride was quite easy, it was only the last kilometer that was truly challenging. After we conquered Lindis Pass, everyone enjoyed the twelve kilometer downhill and ten kilometers of easy riding to lunch. My downhill was interrupted by a New Zealand traffic jam, as I had to stop to let a heard of sheep cross the road.
We feasted on lunch at a magical spot overlooking the Lindis River. Rain seemed imminent so we opted out of the afternoon ride along Lake Wanaka and chose to let the van take us toWanaka. Along the way we stopped at the crossroads town of Tarras and enjoyed ice cream or a cappuccino. The group had definitely divided itself into the ice cream people and the cappuccino people based upon what we all ran for during our breaks from cycling. I was firmly in the ice cream camp and I opted for a double scoop of hokey pokey, a New Zealand mix of vanilla ice cream and toffee chunks
Day 5: Wanaka, The Crown Range, and Arrowtown
Today was a day to enjoy cycling challenges and New Zealand history.
A cool evening brought snow to the mountain peaks, offering us breathtaking views across Lake Wanaka as we cycled out of town. After passing the lake we turned south through the Cardrona Valley towards Queenstown.
Our morning ride was a gentle ramble through the tree lined valley to the Cardrona Hotel. The south islands oldest bar, the Cardrona Hotel was built in 1865 during New Zealand's gold rush, and offers patrons the opportunity to enjoy a piece of New Zealand's history by either sitting in front of the original fire place or enjoying a beer at the 140 year old bar. Given the mornings chill, we all enjoyed a latte and a rest while pondering the climb up and over the Crown Range.
The road over the Crown Range is the highest paved road in New Zealand, and the climb up and over is the toughest cycling challenge on our Milford Wilderness Tour. The first 10 km are relatively easy; it is the last 3.5km that really test ones legs. Six of us, Rob, Paul, Jamie, Michael, Hanley and I set off from the Cardrona, Sandy opted to skip the first bit and ride the last 5km, while the rest of the group opted for a van ride to the top. I felt great through the first easy bit and was feeling confident as I approached the tougher bit. My optimism was misplaced and I quickly ran out of gears and struggled to the top. At the summit, we enjoyed a great sense of camaraderie for having conquered the crown range. From the summit we had another 20kms to lunch, 12 of which where a wicked fun downhill, through switchbacks with stunning views of the valley beneath us. The last bit of the ride was an easy 8 km into the town of Arrowtown.
Like the Cardrona Hotel, Arrowtown was originally built during the New Zealand Gold rush of the 1800's and most of the original wooden buildings have been lovingly restored. Our lunch spot was a tree lined park in the heart of Arrowtown. After lunch we all had plenty of time to explore Arrowtown's many craft shops and galleries. I as usual opted for a bit of Hokey Pokey Ice cream, while others enjoyed cappuccinos, and explored the remnants of the old Chinese gold mining settlement.
After lunch some folks decided they had had enough cycling and opted to ride the van into Queenstown. The rest of us enjoyed another 24km of cycling, including another great 8km downhill. Just before Queenstown, we stopped to watch the jet boats, motor boats with muscle car engines that move by water propulsion allowing them to travel in as little 6 inches of water, travel through the canyons of the Shotover River. Many of us met for a pre dinner cocktail before dinner at a great Italian restaurant with the most interesting men's room I have ever seen. Tired of large fancy meals, I chose a salad and small pizza which I washed down with one of New Zealand's many great regional beers.
Day 6: A Free Day in Queenstown
Queenstown is the self proclaimed "Adventure Capital of The World" and the third most popular tourist destination in the Pacific. For me Queenstown is the Las Vegas of the outdoor world, you can do anything you imagine: hang gliding, bungee jumping, jet boating, wine tasting, river boarding and the list goes on.
I signed on with Paul, his sons Jamie and Chris, and Rob for river boarding, which is whitewater rafting without the raft, one of those wonderful New Zealand activities that would never pass muster in the states due to liability insurance costs. River boarding involves donning a wetsuit, helmet, and life jacket, grabbing a boogie board and trying to navigate your way through the river while swallowing copious amounts of water. Of course they always start you with the hardest stretch. After brief instructions of the 3 basic rules, hold on to your board, follow the leader and I forgot number three, I enjoyed twenty minutes of abject terror as we floated and flailed through a stretch of or rapids. After finding a comfort zone I enjoyed the rest of the trip which ended with a ride being towed behind a jet ski, a water slide and, a high rope swing.
The bulk of the group opted for a more mild experience. Most chose to hike a section of the Routeburn Track, one of New Zealand's great walks and one of the most spectacular three day hikes found anywhere in the world. The group hiked from the north end of the track at Glenorchy, along the Routeburn River and to the Routeburn Flats hut for lunch, enjoying the lush vegetation of the sub tropical rainforest and the luminous blue waters of the river along the way. Despite the rainy weather, many returned from the walk describing it as the best day of hiking they had ever experienced.
In the evening, we all went our separate ways for dinner. The group I dined with enjoyed a lovely Mediterranean influenced meal with a couple bottles of local Central Otago red wines. With the benefit of the exchange rate a lovely meal that would cost $75.00 to $100.00 USD in the states each cost only around $45.00 USD and was even cheaper for the Brits given the strength of the pound versus the New Zealand Dollar.
Day 7: Lake Wakutipu, Lake Manupori, and The Kepler Track
It was another cool morning as we pedaled out of Queenstown, the snowcapped peaks of The Remarkables reminded us that autumn was approaching. We stopped for tea along the lake and continued cycling towards Te Anua. This was a morning where we all got plenty of cycling in. As lunch approached, the van started at the rear of the group picking up people along the way and carried us all to lunch. It is amazing how you can be in the middle of nowhere and find an entirely charming establishment. Today it was a crossroads café, the pride of a young couple who through sweat equity transformed an old gas station into a warm and welcoming café and art gallery. I had wonderful bowl of steaming squash bisque and a latte, before a short van ride to the Kepler Track.
Another of New Zealand's Great Walks the Kepler Track was developed in 1980 as an alternative the world famous Milford Track. Our walk along the track allowed us to experience forests of red beach and rimu as we hiked along Waiau River. Encompassing almost one fifth of the South Island, Fiordland is one of the wildest at wettest places on the planet. The 700 species of plants found only in Fiordland make it one of the world's most unique ecosystems.
Day 8: Te Anua, The Hollyford Valley and Milford Sound
Rain greeted us this morning as we began out cycle towards Milford Sound. Despite the cold rain, our morning ride through the Eddington Valley was beautiful. By the time we reached the tea spot at the Mirror Lake we were all cold and chose to huddle in the van away from the whipping winds.
After tea we all continued cycling, none of us really trusting Bas's comments that the weather could be completely different on the other side of the divide. Bas was right and we were rewarded with one of the most spectacular days of cycling I have every enjoyed. We cycled from the top of the pass, where we caught our first views of the jagged peaks of Milford Sound down into the Hollyford Valley. The ride through the valley was 20 km of slightly downhill, good dirt, no car cycling through one of the most spectacular places on earth.
From the end of the valley the van transferred us through the Homer Tunnel for the 16 km descent into Milford Sound, I did not think that the scenery could get more spectacular than the Hollyford Valley but, I was wrong, the ride into Milford Sound left us all elated.
In Milford Sound, we boarded the Milford Mariner for an over night on the Milford Sound. Our journey began with a cruise along the shear cliffs of the sound and a brief exploration into the Tasman Sea. After our cruise, we anchored for the evening and we enjoyed cocktail and while watching the sunset. After a wonderful dinner, featuring Bas on the piano, we enjoyed a quiet evening of star gazing and early bed times. The next morning most of up were up to watch the sunrise before we returned to shore for another day of cycling.
Day 9: Milford Sound The Routeburn Track and Te Anu
All of us were happy that van was there to carry us up and out of Milford Sound as it would have been a brutal climb. We stopped for the short walk to view the chasm that the Cleddau River has carved through the rocks over the centuries. When we emerged from the Homer Tunnel we all cycled back down the pass to the mirror lakes.
At the Mirror lakes, The winds were blowing strongly in our face, so Bas convinced all us to opt for a hike on the Routeburn Track instead of ridding. The Key Summit is the opposite end of the Routeburn Track from Glenorchy where some folks had hiked on day six. It was a fairly easy hike into sunshine that offered us wonderful views of the valley as well as an interactive nature walk along a summit ridge.
We were a group of reluctant cyclists starting off after lunch. But as often happens, the days you begin your ride reluctantly often turn out to be some of the best days of cycling. Shortly after we began, the drizzle stopped and the sun broke through and we all enjoyed a sun drenched ride back through the Eddington Valley
Day 10: The Mavora Lakes, Walter Peak Station, SS Earnslaw, and Queenstown
A short van ride brought us to the Mavora Lakes for our morning cycle. The dead end road offered another morning of spectacular, car free cycling. We enjoyed out tea over looking the lake and then all cycled back and into the Von Valley.
The Von Valley is true New Zealand bush. Running between the Thompson and Eyre mountains, more than any place I have ever been in New Zealand, the Von Valley lets you experience the vast ruggedness of New Zealand's South Island. I felt as though I were in a cowboy movie as I watched the van's dust trails recede into the valley miles away.
Cycling through the valley you cannot help but feel small in the midst of such an epic landscape. The scenery was brilliant and serene as we enjoyed 20 kilometers of cycling without seeing any other people, any cars, or signs of human habitation. Along the way to lunch, we had to ford a small shallow river. Most of us tried to cycle through but the water was too deep and all but two of us, had very cold and squishy feet when we arrived at lunch. After all trying to one up each other, about how cold our feet were, we all found dry socks and enjoyed another wonderful picnic lunch.
After lunch we said goodbye to Russell and the van and continued cycling through the valley towards Walter Peak Station. The landscape changed from the dry and dusty panorama of the arid valley, to lush green as we approached Lake Wakitipu and the surrounding mountains. Walter Peak Station was originally a sheep station, an outpost for those tending sheep in the valley. It has been redone as tourist attraction, albeit a very classy one. We arrived at the station in time for a tour and sheep shearing exhibition before sitting down for a proper tea with drop scones and Devonshire cream.
After tea we boarded the SS Earnslaw, a steamer built in a 1912 to serve the remote farming communities that surrounded Lake Wakaitipu. Unchanged in its 94 year history, the Earnslaw offers the opportunity to walk the engine room, watch the coal being shoveled into the original engines, join in a sing along, or simply enjoy a wonderful cruise across the lake and into Queenstown.
We arrived back in Queenstown; all a little sad that out trip was ending. We had one last dinner together, at a little out of the way restaurant run by a husband and wife, whose passion for food shows in everything that they do, before we all said goodbye.
